Calvin Klein Meets Plus Size.
September 11, 2016'Plus Size' is one of the most talked about phases of 2016; From the recent all women project, the 'plus-size' glamour issue that had Hollywood tongues wagging thanks to Amy Schumer's outcry ''plus size' is just another way of splitting us into uniformed groups, putting a label on people's appearance", to Asos and Boohoo the two leading retailers found themselves in hot water following plus size fashion being more expensive and Asos unfortunately digging a hole following the Naomi Shimada situation, apologising via social media and consequently insulted the plus size community even more, e.g. "For actual f***s sake @ASOS, you might be uncomfortable with the plus size term, but plus size women aren't?'. As the industry continuously strives to become more inclusive and diverse, we interviewed our IMM Curve models on what they thought on the term, the Calvin Klein debate and where they see the curve industry.
Is plus size now an offensive term and should it be replaced?
Dani; The question of what ‘plus size’ actually is is something that has been speculated pretty much since the term’s conception in the industry. I know for a fact that in the UK’s modelling industry, any woman who wears a dress size UK 12 or higher is considered ‘plus size’, and although this can be slightly confusing to outsiders considering the average dress size for a woman in the UK is a size 16, I personally have viewed the term objectively and without offence, acknowledging that it’s just the way to industry works. Size 4-10 models that are typically used fall into one category, and size 12 or higher fall into another. When it comes to myself, I just consider myself a model, despite being labeled as ‘plus size’ by the industry.
Poppy; In the fashion industry 'plus size' can be considered anyone a uk size 10 and above which, to me, is ridiculous considering the average size of a woman in the uk is a size 14. I do not like the term 'plus size model', I personally prefer the term 'curve model' because, yes, I am curvy and I am proud of that; Yet because of the segregation and labeling I find myself calling the non 'plus size' models the 'normal models'.
Joby; 'Its a way to categorize our division thats all. People needs to stop feeling offended by everything.Come on, I see on a cover TESS HOLIDAY calling herself FAT and PROUD !! and NOW people are offended by the term plus size..excuse me but it doesn't make sense. I disagree that we should call ourselves Fat but not the term plus size which is more respectful.
However although models part of the plus size modelling industry are in many ways 'OK' with the term, how do you feel the term effects those out of the industry?
Rachel; I don’t like it yet I find comfort in it, being called ‘Plus size’ is like a safety blanket; I never have to listen to somebody tell me to loose weight again. But I’m talking about the girls IN the industry; it’s the girls outside of the industry who I worry about the ‘Plus size’ label affecting… A friend a couple of dress sizes bigger than myself once said “If you’re plus size, what does that make me!?” - That broke my heart. I went from feeling like I was supporting curvy girls to doing the opposite. The only way I felt I could comfort her was to degrade myself ‘Well, I’m actually an ’Inbetweenie’ - I’m that weird size in the middle that the industry says isn’t small enough for one type of work but isn’t big enough for the other. Now I have a new constant inner battle - to starve myself or stuff myself for the sake of work?
For women out of the industry it is clear why the term plus size and seeing models size 12 modelling these collections can be both insulting and utterly upsetting; this why the term 'inbetweener' sprung on the scene thanks to the first 'plus-size' Calvin Klein model Myla Dalbesio and recently Charli Howard. We have all seen the Calvin Klein meme, promoting Dalbesio as the first PS Calvin model, although she denies being plus size and stated that her figure deserves to be represented for others like her, we asked our models how they felt when the shot resurfaced and the term 'inbetweener'.
Dani; Although I understand the purpose of the term ‘inbetweener’ model and previously used it to describe myself for a little while, unfortunately clients only really tend to see things in black or white; straight models or curve models. I know many women a similar dress size (UK size 12) to myself would identify themselves as ‘inbetweener’ models, but as I said previously, I don’t really feel the need to use a label to describe what type of model I am unless I’ve been asked otherwise. I think the confusion over where and when it’s appropriate to use the term ‘plus size’ derives from the fact that the plus-sized spectrum is essentially everlasting, starting from a UK size 12 and ending at.. Well, that’s the thing- there is no end, unlike standard ‘straight’ modelling. I guess the term ‘inbetweener’ model was created to break up the plus-size spectrum a tad.
Rachel; So, CK used a size 10/12 model in their 2014 lingerie campaign, it recently went viral again because of the “plus size” meme that went around twitter .This campaign gave me mixed emotions, I was stoked that a huge brand like CK were using an ‘inbetweenie’ model, but I was angry because the media were all over that “plus size” shit! Any teenage girl who is a healthy size 10-12 will see that and think she’s ‘plus size’, think she’s over weight and try to loose it. Hello eating disorders!
The effects of body shamming in the industry (have you been targeted?) and do you ever find yourself doing it to women who are ‘high fashion’ models?
Dani; ‘Aren’t you a little small to be plus size?’ is something that I get asked a lot from friends and family after I tell them that I’m a model. Although this is probably asked with good intentions, I can’t help but feel it both skinny shames me and fat shames models who wear a larger dress size than myself. The question ultimately implies that a woman must be a certain size to be respected and considered a model, without question. Being a curvy and comfortable size 12 myself, for once I am totally comfortable with my figure, and a question like that sort of makes me reconsider everything. Maybe I should try to be a little curvier? Will gaining weight help me get work? Or should I try to lose 2 stone and 2 dress sizes and forget this whole ‘plus size’ thing? are all questions that I’ve asked myself since being signed to my agency as a ‘plus-size’ or ‘curve’ model. For a little while, I felt women curvier than myself were praised for their perfect curves in all the right places and women skinnier than myself were praised for their perfectly sculpted bodies with not an inch of fat in sight, which left me feeling unappreciated and average, as just a girl who was bang in the middle. I’ve only recently come to accept the way the industry works, and that different clients require all different body shapes and sizes. I don’t think it’s a particularly healthy mindset to body shame any model in the industry as everyone is different, and what client or demographic may perceive as beautiful, another may not.
Joby; Honestly I don't focus on that kind of thing, why? Simply because its to give ENERGY to something negative and not constructive you know, they will always have somewhere oppressor and bullies. We just need to be strong and stay focused. Nobody has the right to intimidate anyone, Its question of principle.
One curve model who teamed up with Sunday Morning View for a powerful shot to demonstrate that all bodies matter was Audrey. Painted with hurtful words in nothing but lingerie, it caused a storm and social media. Audrey is known for her viewpoints on the curve industry; check out what she had to say on behalf of body shaming; 'Thoroughly annoyed that i see so many people hating on slim women. How is that fair? A lot of women would love to be curvy but there bodies aren't designed that way and that's okay. I feel like people have gotten so caught up in the body positive movement that they have forgotten others feelings. Everyone has insecurities don't forget that.' Speaking of body empowerment Check out new face Penelope's opinion on the industry and how modelling has helped her.
And where do you see the fashion industry going with curve models – Is it going to test the size 0 model
Dani; Personally, I would love it if the industry shifted it’s sizes a bit, so that retail e-commerce brands such as ASOS and New Look used a mix of size 6-12 models on their main clothing range, and middle of the spectrum ‘plus size’ models on their plus and curve range. However, it’s highly unlikely that this will happen anytime soon, if at all. The fashion and modelling industry tend to stick to tradition, meaning most brands tend to use models from the start of the spectrum. I can really only see the plus and curve industry growing more and more popular due to popular retail demand, but I really hope it’s growth doesn’t disable size 0 ‘high fashion’ models from modelling either, as I don’t believe it’s fair to praise one size but disregard another.
Rachel; Thankfully the industry IS changing, and we should celebrate that - but it’s not changing enough. What would be my ideal? A full range of body diversity where ALL sizes are represented in fashion with no labels. Models should be represented for what they are - Models.
Poppy; I pride myself in being a representative for curvy women because i know that i have cellulite and stretch marks and lumpy bits like all women do and i think it is important that all body types are shown in the media. I think curve models (for women AND men) are really important and will be seen more and more over time.
Joby; No I think they both have their place and purpose. We need all kinds of models, ALL SHAPES , ALL COLOURS , ALL FORMS. I would like to point out it would increase the plus size model competition; Sadly, I have seen lot of competition between plus models me included, yes I admit, I fell into this trap but this is exactly what society wants from us ( Comparing ourselves, criticizing and to become the BEST ) however after sometime and reflexion, I realize that everybody have their own struggles and their own suffering and then Instead of judging, I started to appreciate what I saw and I appreciate the achievement of others and support them through this difficult battle that is solidarity.
I stopped being influenced by the media and began to focus on myself.
